Pet Aqua — Three Step Guide to Healthy Axolotls

Ambystoma mexicanum · The Mexican Walking Fish

Please feel free to pop in, call, or message us if you need any advice.
Pet Aqua — 3-Step Guide to Happy, Healthy Axolotl Keeping

1Set Up

2Add Axolotl

3Maintain

STEP 1

Set Up Your Axolotl Tank

Axolotls are fully aquatic salamanders, not fish. They come from cool, high-altitude lakes in Mexico and need cold water — this is the single most important thing to get right. Getting the setup right from day one prevents most problems. The tank must be fully cycled before any axolotl goes in. Take your time — there are no shortcuts.

Tank Size — 100 Litres Per Axolotl

At Pet Aqua, we recommend a minimum of 100 litres per axolotl. Axolotls produce a significant amount of waste for their size, and larger water volumes mean more stable water parameters. Floor space matters more than height — axolotls are bottom-dwellers that walk along the substrate rather than swim up and down. A long, wide tank always outperforms a tall, narrow one of equal volume.

Minimum 100 litres for a single axolotl. This gives enough volume for stable temperature and water quality.
Add 100 litres for each additional axolotl. Two axolotls need a 200-litre tank, three need 300 litres.
Choose a long, wide tank over a tall one. Axolotls live on the bottom — floor space is what matters.
A larger tank is always better. More water volume dilutes toxins, buffers temperature swings, and makes the environment more forgiving.
Avoid tanks under 75 litres. Small volumes swing in temperature and water quality too fast, which stresses the axolotl and causes illness.

Temperature — The Most Important Number

Axolotls are a cool-water species. Temperature is the single most critical parameter in their entire care. They need cold water — this is the opposite of what most people expect when keeping an aquarium. If you are coming from tropical fish keeping, forget everything you know about heating. Axolotls do not need a heater. They need cooling.

Ideal temperature: 16 to 18 degrees C. This is the sweet spot.
Acceptable range: 14 to 20 degrees C.
Above 20 degrees C: the axolotl becomes stressed, gills shrink, appetite drops, and susceptibility to fungal infection increases.
Above 22 degrees C: this is emergency territory. Rapid health decline and death can occur if not corrected.
Stability is critical. Sudden temperature swings are just as dangerous as consistently high temperatures.
Axolotls do not need a heater. In most UK homes, room temperature will keep the tank in range for much of the year. The challenge is summer — see the cooling section below.

Keeping the Tank Cool — UK Summers

In the UK, keeping an axolotl cool enough during summer is the biggest challenge. Most homes reach 22 to 25 degrees C in warm weather, which is too hot for an axolotl. You need a plan for cooling before summer arrives.

Keep the tank in the coolest room in the house — away from windows, radiators, and direct sunlight. A north-facing room is ideal.
A clip-on fan blowing across the water surface can drop the temperature by 2 to 4 degrees. This is the most cost-effective cooling method.
Float frozen water bottles (plastic bottles filled with water and frozen) in the tank during heatwaves. Replace them as they melt. Never add ice directly to the tank.
For reliable long-term cooling, an aquarium chiller is the best solution. It is a higher upfront cost but keeps the temperature stable regardless of room temperature.
Do water changes with slightly cooler water during heatwaves to bring the temperature down gradually.
Monitor the temperature daily with a digital thermometer. During summer, check it twice a day.
Never let the temperature exceed 22 degrees C. If it does, act immediately — fans, frozen bottles, and water changes.

Where to Place Your Axolotl Tank

Choose the position carefully. A full 100-litre tank weighs over 100kg when full — it cannot be moved once set up.

Place away from windows. Direct sunlight causes temperature swings and algae problems.
Keep away from radiators, heaters, and fires. Axolotls need cold water — any heat source nearby makes temperature control harder.
Choose the coolest room in the house. This makes summer cooling far easier.
Avoid busy walkways and areas with vibrations (next to speakers, doors that slam, washing machines). Axolotls are sensitive to vibration and stress easily.
Use a dedicated stand or solid furniture rated for at least 150kg. A 100-litre tank weighs over 100kg when full.
Ensure the surface is level. An uneven stand can crack the glass.
Keep near a power point for the filter and light. Use a drip loop on cables for safety.

Filtration — Gentle Flow is Essential

Axolotls produce a significant amount of waste but they dislike strong water flow. They come from still, slow-moving waters. The filter must provide strong biological filtration without creating a current. Cold water also slows bacterial reproduction, so you need to maximise the biological media volume in your filter.

A sponge filter is ideal for a single axolotl. It provides biological filtration with minimal flow and is safe for axolotls.
A canister filter is a good choice for larger tanks. It holds more biological media, which is important in cold water. The output must be diffused — use a spray bar pointed at the glass or a diffuser to break up the flow.
If using a hang-on-back filter, fit a pre-filter sponge and turn the flow down. The output should barely ripple the surface.
Never use a powerhead or strong internal filter. Axolotls cannot swim against flow and will become stressed and exhausted.
Run the filter continuously. It should never be switched off for more than 2 to 3 hours.
Cold water slows beneficial bacteria reproduction. Use extra biological media (ceramic noodles, bio-balls) to compensate. Mechanical and chemical media are secondary.
The filter holds the beneficial bacteria that keep your axolotl alive. Never replace all the media at once.

Substrate — Fine Sand or Bare Bottom, Never Gravel

This is a safety-critical decision. Axolotls feed by suction — they suck in food like a vacuum, drawing in everything around it. If there is gravel in the tank, the axolotl will swallow it. Gravel causes fatal intestinal impaction (blockage). This is one of the most common causes of axolotl death in captivity.

Bare bottom is the safest option. It is the easiest to clean and eliminates any impaction risk. There is no evidence that bare-bottom tanks cause stress to axolotls.
Fine sand (grain size under 1mm) is also safe for axolotls over 15cm (6 inches) long. If swallowed, the fine particles pass through the digestive tract without causing blockage. Rinse thoroughly before use.
Never use gravel. Gravel of any size is dangerous. Small gravel causes impaction. Large gravel can still be sucked in and cause blockages.
Never use soil, plant substrate, or coloured gravels. These are toxic or impossible to clean.
Large, smooth river rocks (larger than the axolotl's head) can be used as decoration, but they must be too big to swallow.
If using sand, keep it to a thin layer of 2 to 3cm. Deep sand beds are harder to clean and trap waste.
For juvenile axolotls under 15cm, use bare bottom only. Sand is not recommended for small axolotls.

Decor and Hiding Spots

Axolotls need hiding spots to feel secure. They are ambush predators that spend much of their time resting on the bottom. Provide at least 2 to 3 hides per axolotl.

Provide 2 to 3 hides per axolotl. PVC pipes, ceramic caves, and smooth rock formations all work well.
All decor must be smooth with no sharp edges. Axolotls have delicate skin that tears easily.
Avoid anything with small openings where an axolotl could get stuck. They are curious and will explore every gap.
Live plants can be used but axolotls often destroy them. Hardy plants like Java fern, Anubias, and Marimo moss balls are the best choices. Attach plants to rocks or wood rather than planting in the substrate.
Artificial silk plants are a practical alternative. Avoid plastic plants — the sharp edges can damage the axolotl's skin.
Axolotls do not need a basking platform or dry land area. They are fully aquatic and never leave the water.

Lid and Water Level

Axolotls are not strong jumpers like bettas, but a lid is still important to prevent escape and to help maintain stable water temperature.

Use a lid to prevent escape and reduce evaporation. A lid also helps keep the temperature stable.
Ensure the lid is well-ventilated. Axolotls breathe through their gills and skin and need oxygen exchange at the surface.
Leave a small gap between the water surface and the lid for gas exchange.

Water Parameters

Axolotls are relatively hardy on water chemistry but fussy about temperature. They prefer slightly hard, alkaline water. Most UK tap water falls in the acceptable range. Stability matters more than hitting a perfect number — the one thing they will not forgive is warm water.

Parameter	Ideal Range	Tolerance	Notes
Temperature	16 to 18 degrees C	14 to 20 degrees C	Most critical parameter. Above 20 is stressful, above 22 is dangerous
pH	7.4 to 7.6	6.8 to 8.0	Stability more important than exact value. Slightly alkaline preferred
GH (hardness)	7 to 14 dGH	5 to 16 dGH	Slightly hard water preferred
KH	3 to 8 dKH	2 to 10 dKH	Buffers pH; prevents dangerous swings
Ammonia	0 ppm	0 ppm	Zero tolerance — cycle tank fully before adding axolotl
Nitrite	0 ppm	0 ppm	Zero tolerance — toxic to axolotls
Nitrate	Below 20 ppm	Below 40 ppm	Axolotls produce a lot of waste — regular water changes essential
Chlorine	0 ppm	0 ppm	Always treat tap water with a dechlorinator

The Cycle — Do Not Skip This

At Pet Aqua, we insist on a fully cycled tank before adding an axolotl. This is not optional. Axolotls produce a heavy bioload — they eat a lot and they produce a lot of waste. In an uncycled tank, ammonia builds up rapidly and burns the axolotl's gills and skin. The cycle takes 4 to 6 weeks to complete naturally, or can be sped up with bottled bacteria. Cold water slows the cycle, so allow extra time.

Set up the tank with substrate, decor, filter, and water. Run it with the filter on.
Add Seachem Stability daily for 7 days to introduce beneficial bacteria and start the biological filter.
Add Seachem Prime to make the tap water safe by removing chlorine and chloramine.
Add a small pinch of fish food every 2 to 3 days to produce ammonia and feed the bacteria, or use pure ammonia.
Test the water regularly. You will see ammonia rise, then fall. Then nitrite rises and falls. Then nitrate appears. When ammonia and nitrite both read 0 and nitrate is showing, the tank is cycled.
Cold water slows bacterial growth. The cycle may take longer than it would in a tropical tank. Be patient.
Do a 20% water change before adding your axolotl to bring nitrates down.
Bring a water sample to Pet Aqua for testing before you buy your axolotl. We will confirm it is safe.

Important Tips for Setup

Never use a heater. Axolotls need cold water (16 to 18 degrees C). A heater will overheat and kill them.
Never use gravel. Axolotls swallow it while feeding and it causes fatal impaction. Fine sand or bare bottom only.
Never let the temperature exceed 20 degrees C for extended periods. Above 22 is an emergency.
Never add an axolotl to a tank that has not finished cycling. Ammonia burns their gills and skin.
Never use a filter with strong flow. Axolotls are stressed by currents and cannot swim against them.
Plan for summer cooling before you need it. A fan, frozen bottles, or a chiller are essential in warm weather.
Avoid sharp decor and plastic plants. Axolotls have delicate skin that tears easily.

Step 1 Checklist

Tank set up — minimum 100 litres per axolotl, long and wide
Tank placed in the coolest room, away from windows and heat sources
Stand rated for at least 150kg, surface level
Sponge filter or canister filter with diffused output installed and running
Fine sand (under 1mm) or bare bottom — no gravel
2 to 3 hides per axolotl — all smooth, no sharp edges
Lid fitted
Digital thermometer in place
Summer cooling plan ready — fan, frozen bottles, or chiller
Seachem Prime added to make tap water safe
Seachem Stability dosed daily for 7 days
Tank fully cycled — ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate showing
Water tested and confirmed safe before buying axolotl
Temperature stable at 16 to 18 degrees C

STEP 2

Add Your Axolotl

After the tank is fully cycled and the temperature is stable, it is ready for your axolotl. Choose a healthy fish, acclimatise it properly, and get the feeding routine right from day one. Axolotls are carnivores — they need a protein-based diet, not fish flakes.

Buying Your Axolotl

Ask at Pet Aqua about the axolotls we have available. Choose an active, alert animal with clean gills and smooth skin.

Ask at Pet Aqua about axolotls currently available, or visit us in store.
Choose an active, alert axolotl. A healthy axolotl is responsive and moves around when approached.
Check the gills. They should be full and feathery, not shrivelled or pale. Shrinking gills indicate stress, often from warm water.
Check the skin. It should be smooth and clean. Avoid axolotls with white fluffy patches (fungus), red patches, or sores.
Check the body shape. A healthy axolotl is plump but not bloated. Avoid thin or emaciated animals.
Avoid axolotls with curled gills, floating at the surface, or showing signs of stress.
A single axolotl is the simplest setup. If keeping multiple, they must be similar in size — axolotls will eat anything that fits in their mouth, including smaller axolotls.

Bringing Your Axolotl Home

The journey home and the introduction to the tank are stressful. Get it right. Axolotls are sensitive to temperature changes, so acclimatisation is especially important.

Keep the bag insulated — use a cool bag in summer and a insulated wrap in winter. Temperature shock is dangerous.
Do not leave the axolotl in a hot or cold car. Go straight home.
When you arrive, float the sealed bag in the tank for 15 to 20 minutes to equalise the temperature. Do not open the bag yet.
After temperature equalises, open the bag and roll the top down to keep it floating. Add a small amount of tank water to the bag every 10 minutes for 30 to 45 minutes. This slowly acclimatises the axolotl to your water parameters.
After 30 to 45 minutes, use a net or your hands (wet and clean) to transfer the axolotl into the tank. Do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.
Dispose of the bag water down the sink.
Keep the light off for the first few hours to reduce stress.
Do not feed on the first day. Let the axolotl settle overnight.
Offer a small amount of food the next day. If the axolotl does not eat, remove the food and try again the following day — it may take a day or two to settle in.

Feeding — A Carnivore Diet

Axolotls are obligate carnivores. In the wild they eat worms, insects, and small crustaceans. Their diet must be protein-based. The gold standard staple food is live earthworms — they are the most nutritionally complete food available for axolotls, with high protein, a favourable calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, and a soft body that passes through the gut without impaction risk.

Staple Food

Live Earthworms

The gold standard. High protein, balanced calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, soft body. The wriggling movement stimulates the axolotl's natural predatory instinct. Available at Pet Aqua — ordered fresh every Wednesday.

Treat / Rotation

Bloodworms (Live or Frozen)

Good for juveniles and as an occasional treat to trigger feeding response. NOT a staple — they are calcium-poor and nutritionally incomplete. Limit to 1 to 2 times per week. Live bloodworms available at Pet Aqua every other Friday. Frozen bloodworms available in store anytime — thaw a cube in a small cup of tank water before offering.

Treat / Juvenile Food

Tubifex Worms (Live or Frozen)

Good for juveniles too small to eat earthworms. Not nutritionally complete — do not use as sole food. Live tubifex can carry parasites; frozen is safer. Live tubifex available every other Friday. Frozen tubifex available in store anytime — thaw before feeding.

Staple Alternative

Sinking Pellets

Quality sinking carnivore or salmon pellets can be used as an alternative or supplement to earthworms. Ensure they sink — axolotls will not feed from the surface. Remove uneaten pellets to prevent water contamination.

The Pet Aqua Live and Frozen Food Schedule

Live earthworms — ordered every Wednesday. These are the staple food and the best option for your axolotl. Pop in or call to reserve yours.
Live bloodworms and tubifex — available every other Friday. These are treat foods to add variety to the diet. Use them alongside earthworms, not instead of them.
Frozen bloodworms and frozen tubifex — available in store anytime. A convenient alternative to live. Thaw a cube in a small cup of tank water before offering. Frozen foods are parasite-free and safe to keep in your freezer.
Call Pet Aqua on 01634 849361 to check availability and reserve live or frozen food before collecting.

How Much and How Often

Adult axolotls: feed every 2 to 3 days. Offer one appropriately sized earthworm, or a portion the axolotl can finish in 2 to 5 minutes.
Juvenile axolotls (under 15cm): feed daily, as much as they can eat in 5 minutes.
Offer only what the axolotl can finish in a few minutes. Remove any uneaten food immediately — it will rot and spike ammonia.
Earthworms should be rinsed in clean water before feeding. Cut large worms into pieces for smaller axolotls.
Hand-feeding with tongs or placing food in front of the axolotl is better than scattering food across the substrate.
Feed bloodworms and tubifex 1 to 2 times per week as treats, replacing one earthworm meal. Do not feed them as the main diet. Both live and frozen forms can be used — thaw frozen cubes in a small cup of tank water before offering.

Why Bloodworms Are Not a Staple

Bloodworms are high in protein but calcium-poor. Feeding them as the main diet leads to nutritional deficiencies over time.
They have an incomplete amino-acid profile compared to earthworms.
They are lower in caloric density, meaning the axolotl needs to eat more to get the same nutrition.
They are best used as a treat, a feeding-response trigger, or for juveniles too small to eat full earthworms.
Earthworms provide everything the axolotl needs in one food. That is why they are the staple, and bloodworms are the treat.

Foods and Products That Harm Axolotls

Gravel — the number one cause of axolotl death in captivity. Swallowed gravel causes fatal intestinal impaction. Fine sand or bare bottom only.
Feeder fish — carry parasites and disease. Not recommended. Axolotls can also injure them and the fish can damage the axolotl's gills.
Mealworms and crickets — the hard exoskeleton (chitin) is difficult to digest and can cause impaction. Avoid.
Raw terrestrial meat (chicken, beef, fish) — not nutritionally appropriate and can carry bacteria. Do not feed.
Plant matter — axolotls are obligate carnivores. They cannot digest plants. Do not offer vegetables or plant-based foods.
Overfeeding — uneaten food rots, spikes ammonia, and causes bloating. Feed only what the axolotl can finish in a few minutes.
Warm water — above 20 degrees C causes stress, gill shrinkage, and fungal infections. Above 22 degrees C is an emergency.
Copper-based medications — toxic to axolotls. Always check medication labels.
Air fresheners, aerosols, and cleaning sprays — never spray near the tank. Chemicals drift into the water and are absorbed through the axolotl's skin.
Soap and detergents — never wash tank equipment with soap. Residue is absorbed through the skin and is toxic.

Tank Mates — Keep It Simple

The safest option is to keep axolotls alone or with other axolotls of the same size. Axolotls will eat anything that fits in their mouth, and their delicate gills are easily damaged by other fish.

Best option: keep a single axolotl, or a group of axolotls of similar size. No other species.
Never keep axolotls with fish. Fish nip at the axolotl's gills, causing stress and infection. The axolotl may also eat small fish.
Never keep axolotls with smaller axolotls. They will eat them. All axolotls in a tank must be similar in size.
Never keep axolotls with crayfish, crabs, or any animal with claws — they will injure the axolotl.
Snails (such as apple snails or ramshorn snails) can sometimes be kept with axolotls, but large snails may be eaten and small snails may carry parasites. Use caution.
If in doubt, keep the axolotl alone. They are perfectly happy as solitary animals.

Important Tips for Adding Your Axolotl

Never add an axolotl to a tank that has not finished cycling. Ammonia burns their gills and skin.
Never add an axolotl to a tank that is above 20 degrees C. Wait until the temperature is stable at 16 to 18 degrees C.
Never feed bloodworms as the main diet. Earthworms are the staple — bloodworms are a treat only.
Never feed mealworms, crickets, feeder fish, or raw meat. These cause impaction, disease, or nutritional problems.
Never keep an axolotl with fish. Fish damage gills and spread disease.
Never spray aerosols, air fresheners, or cleaning products near the tank. Axolotls absorb chemicals through their skin.
Never do a large water change right after adding your axolotl. Keep changes small (20 to 25%) and match the temperature.
Reserve live earthworms on Wednesdays and live bloodworms/tubifex on alternate Fridays at Pet Aqua. Frozen bloodworms and tubifex are available in store anytime.

Step 2 Checklist

Tank fully cycled — ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate showing
Temperature stable at 16 to 18 degrees C
Axolotl chosen — active, alert, clean gills, smooth skin
Axolotl acclimatised slowly over 30 to 45 minutes
Bag water disposed of, not added to tank
Light kept off for first few hours
Not fed on the first day
Live earthworms reserved or collected from Pet Aqua (Wednesdays)
Frozen bloodworms and tubifex available in store anytime
Adult feeding: every 2 to 3 days, earthworms as staple
Bloodworms and tubifex as treats 1 to 2 times per week (live or frozen)
Sinking pellets available as alternative staple if needed
Uneaten food removed immediately after feeding
No gravel, no fish, no aerosols near the tank

STEP 3

Ongoing Maintenance & Health

A simple routine keeps the tank healthy and your axolotl thriving. Consistency matters more than effort. Axolotls are hardy animals when kept in cold, clean, stable water — the problems come from warm water, poor water quality, and wrong substrate.

Water Changes

Regular water changes are the single most important maintenance task. Axolotls produce a heavy bioload — they eat a lot and produce a lot of waste. The filter handles ammonia and nitrite, but nitrate builds up over time and must be removed with water changes.

Change 20 to 25% of the water weekly. This keeps nitrate low and parameters stable.
Never change more than 50% at once unless there is an emergency. Large changes cause parameter swings that stress the axolotl.
Always match the temperature of the new water to the tank. Use a thermometer — the new water should be the same temperature or very slightly cooler, never warmer.
Add Seachem Prime to the new water before it goes in the tank. This removes chlorine and chloramine instantly. Never add untreated tap water.
Match the pH of the new water to the tank. Stability is more important than hitting a perfect number.
Pour the new water in slowly. Do not pour it directly onto the axolotl or disturb the substrate.
Use a gravel vacuum to siphon waste from the substrate during water changes — especially important if using sand, as waste accumulates on the surface.
If your tap water is chloraminated (common in UK city water), ensure your dechlorinator handles both chlorine and chloramine. Seachem Prime does both.

Filter Maintenance

The filter holds the beneficial bacteria that keep your axolotl alive. Clean it properly or you risk crashing the tank. Cold water slows bacterial reproduction, so preserving your biological media is even more important than with tropical fish.

Never clean the filter media under tap water. Chlorine kills beneficial bacteria. Always rinse the media in a bucket of old tank water removed during a water change.
Squeeze the sponge gently in old tank water to remove debris. Do not scrub or wring it out aggressively.
Do not replace all the filter media at once. Replace media in stages — never more than half at a time — and run old and new together for a month.
Clean the filter every 4 to 6 weeks, or when the flow reduces.
After cleaning, add a dose of Seachem Stability to replace any bacteria lost.
Maximise biological media volume. In cold water, bacteria reproduce slowly, so more surface area means more bacteria. Use ceramic noodles, bio-balls, or extra sponge media.
Keep the filter flow gentle. If the output is creating a current, baffle it or reduce the flow.

Temperature Management — Year Round

Temperature is the most critical parameter for axolotls. It needs monitoring every single day, not just in summer. The goal is stability at 16 to 18 degrees C.

Autumn, Winter, and Spring

Most UK homes stay cool enough for axolotls during these seasons. Room temperature will usually keep the tank in range.
Check the temperature daily. A digital thermometer is essential.
Avoid placing the tank near radiators or fires. Even in winter, a nearby heat source can push the tank above 20 degrees C.
If the room gets very cold (below 10 degrees C), the axolotl will slow down and eat less. This is not dangerous, but keep an eye on the temperature. Do not use a heater to warm the tank.

Summer — The Critical Season

Summer is the most dangerous time for axolotls in the UK. Most homes reach 22 to 25 degrees C in warm weather, which is too hot.
Use a clip-on fan blowing across the water surface. This can drop the temperature by 2 to 4 degrees through evaporative cooling.
Float frozen water bottles in the tank. Fill plastic bottles with water, freeze them, and float them in the tank. Replace as they melt. Never add ice directly to the tank.
Do water changes with slightly cooler water to bring the temperature down gradually.
For reliable, hands-off cooling, an aquarium chiller is the best investment. It keeps the temperature stable regardless of room temperature.
Keep blinds or curtains closed during the day to keep the room cool.
Check the temperature twice a day during hot weather. Act immediately if it rises above 20 degrees C.
Never let the temperature exceed 22 degrees C. Above this, the axolotl is in immediate danger.

Regular Water Testing

Test your water weekly. Axolotls produce a heavy bioload, so parameters can shift quickly. Catching problems early prevents illness. Use a liquid test kit, not test strips — strips are less accurate.

Bring a water sample to Pet Aqua for testing, or use a home liquid test kit.
Test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.
Ammonia and nitrite should always read 0 in a healthy tank. Any reading above 0 is an emergency — do a 25% water change immediately and add Seachem Prime.
Nitrate should stay below 20 ppm. If it rises, increase water change frequency or size. Axolotls produce a lot of waste, so nitrate can climb fast.
Keep a record of your parameters over time. This helps you spot trends before they become problems.
Test more frequently during summer — warm water holds less oxygen and ammonia becomes more toxic at higher temperatures.

Common Axolotl Health Problems

Heat Stress

Symptoms: gill shrinkage, reduced appetite, lethargy, floating, increased susceptibility to fungal infection.
Cause: water temperature above 20 degrees C. This is the most common axolotl health problem in the UK during summer.
Fix: cool the water immediately using fans, frozen bottles, and water changes. Move the tank to a cooler room if possible. If temperature is above 22 degrees C, act as an emergency.

Fungal Infection

Symptoms: white fluffy patches on the body or gills, like cotton wool.
Cause: poor water quality, warm water, or stress. Fungal infections are often secondary to heat stress.
Fix: test the water immediately, do a water change, and lower the temperature if it is high. Treat with a fungal medication safe for amphibians (never copper-based). Salt baths (using non-iodised salt at the correct concentration) can help — ask Pet Aqua for guidance.

Impaction

Symptoms: bloating, not eating, constipation, floating, lethargy.
Cause: swallowed gravel or other indigestible material. This is fatal if not treated.
Fix: move the axolotl to a bare-bottom container in cool water (fridging) to slow the metabolism and encourage the material to pass. If symptoms persist, see an exotic vet immediately. Prevention is the best cure — never use gravel.

Floating

Symptoms: the axolotl floats at the surface and cannot stay on the bottom.
Cause: swallowed air, gas in the gut from overfeeding, or impaction. Sometimes stress or temperature shock.
Fix: check the temperature and water quality. Fast the axolotl for 2 to 3 days. If it persists, check for impaction. Fridging (placing in cool water in the fridge) can help the gut settle.

Gill Shrinkage

Symptoms: gills become smaller, less feathery, and pale.
Cause: usually heat stress or poor water quality. Sometimes a sign of high flow in the tank.
Fix: check temperature first. If above 18 degrees C, cool the tank. Test the water for ammonia and nitrite. Reduce filter flow if it is too strong.

Limb or Gill Biting

Symptoms: missing or damaged gill stalks, missing toes or limbs.
Cause: axolotls sometimes bite each other if housed together, or bite their own limbs due to stress or hunger.
Fix: separate the axolotls if they are biting each other. Axolotls can regrow lost limbs and gills — keep the water clean and the animal will recover. Ensure the axolotl is being fed enough.

Lifespan — Think Before You Buy

Axolotls are a long-term commitment. They live 10 to 15 years on average with proper care, and some individuals live past 20 years. This is not a short-term pet. Before you buy, make sure you are ready to maintain a cold-water tank for the full lifespan of the animal.

Axolotls live 10 to 15 years on average. Some live longer with excellent care.
Lifespan depends heavily on water temperature (cooler means longer life), water quality, and diet.
Before you buy, research the care requirements and make sure you can commit to daily temperature checks, weekly water changes, and ongoing maintenance for 10 to 15 years.
Set up the tank and cycle it before you bring the axolotl home. Never buy the tank and the axolotl on the same day.
Plan for summer cooling before you need it. If you cannot keep the tank below 20 degrees C during summer, an axolotl is not the right pet for your home.

Golden Rules of Axolotl Care

Never use a heater. Axolotls need cold water (16 to 18 degrees C).
Never let the temperature exceed 20 degrees C. Above 22 is an emergency.
Never use gravel. It causes fatal impaction. Fine sand or bare bottom only.
Never add an axolotl to an uncycled tank. Ammonia burns their gills and skin.
Never use a filter with strong flow. Axolotls are stressed by currents.
Never feed bloodworms as the main diet. Earthworms are the staple.
Never feed mealworms, crickets, feeder fish, or raw meat.
Never keep axolotls with fish. Fish damage gills and spread disease.
Never spray aerosols, air fresheners, or cleaning products near the tank.
Never do a water change larger than 50% unless there is an emergency.
Never clean filter media under tap water. Use old tank water only.
Never overfeed. Remove uneaten food immediately.
Always have a summer cooling plan ready before the warm weather arrives.

Step 3 Checklist — Weekly Routine

20 to 25% water change with temperature-matched, dechlorinated water
Seachem Prime added to new water
Temperature checked daily — 16 to 18 degrees C
Water tested — ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate below 20 ppm
Axolotl checked — active, alert, gills full and feathery, skin clean
Feeding — adult every 2 to 3 days, earthworms as staple
Bloodworms and tubifex as treats 1 to 2 times per week (live or frozen)
Uneaten food removed immediately after feeding
Filter flow checked — gentle, not strong
Substrate siphoned to remove waste

Monthly Routine

Filter media rinsed in old tank water
Substrate deep-cleaned (siphoned if sand, wiped if bare bottom)
Glass wiped clean
Decor cleaned and repositioned if needed
Temperature equipment (thermometer) checked for accuracy
Summer cooling equipment tested (fan, chiller) before warm weather
Diet reviewed — ensure variety through the month
Live food schedule checked — earthworms on Wednesdays, bloodworms/tubifex on alternate Fridays, frozen bloodworms and tubifex available anytime

Visit Pet Aqua

245 High Street, Chatham, Kent, ME4 4BQ. Pop in for advice, axolotls, live food, and tank supplies.

Find Us

Call Us

Tel: 01634 849361. Reserve live earthworms (Wednesdays) and bloodworms/tubifex (alternate Fridays). Frozen bloodworms and tubifex available in store anytime. Ask us anything about your axolotl.

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