Pet Aqua — Three Step Guide to Healthy Betta Fish

Types of Betta — Tail Types Explained

Betta fish are classified by tail type. The main difference between them is fin length and shape, which affects swimming ability and fin health. Short-finned types are hardier and more active; long-finned types are more spectacular but more prone to fin damage and need gentler flow and cleaner water.

Which Type Should You Choose?

• Plakats are the best choice for beginners. They are hardy, active, strong swimmers, and suffer far less fin damage.
• Veiltails are also good for beginners. They are widely available and relatively hardy, though the heavy fins need clean water.
• Halfmoons, Crowntails, and Over-Halfmoons are spectacular but need more careful water management and gentler flow. The bigger the fin, the faster a poorly set up tank causes damage.
• Regardless of tail type, all bettas need the same minimum 30 litres, heated and filtered.

Male vs Female — What is the Difference?

The difference between male and female bettas is fin length, colour, size, and temperament. Females have the same tail types as males but in shorter-finned versions, which is why female bettas look plainer even in expensive lines.

How to Tell Them Apart

• Males have longer fins and brighter colour. Females have shorter, rounded fins and a small white egg spot between the ventral fins.
• Plakat males can be tricky to sex because both sexes have short fins. Look for the egg spot on females and elongated ventral fins on males.
• When young, all bettas look similar. Ask at Pet Aqua if you are unsure — we will help you identify the sex.

Buying Your Betta

See the bettas we have available at Pet Aqua on our website. Choose an active, alert fish with clean, undamaged fins.

• View our available bettas at pet-aqua.co.uk/fish-for-sale/betta or visit us in store.
• Choose an active, alert fish. A healthy betta is curious, responsive, and swims around when you approach.
• Check the fins. They should be clean and whole, not torn, clamped, or ragged. Fin damage can indicate poor water quality or stress.
• Check the body. Look for clean, bright eyes and smooth scales. Avoid fish with white spots, cotton-like growths, bloated bodies, or clamped fins.
• Ask at Pet Aqua about the temperament of the fish you are interested in. Some individuals are more aggressive than others.
• A single male betta is the simplest and most rewarding setup. One fish, one tank, no compatibility worries.

Bringing Your Betta Home

The journey home and the introduction to the tank are stressful for any fish. Get it right.

• Keep the bag insulated in winter — cold shock kills. Use a cool bag or wrap the bag in a towel.
• Do not leave the fish in a hot car. Go straight home.
• When you arrive, float the sealed bag in the tank for 15 to 20 minutes to equalise the temperature. Do not open the bag yet.
• After temperature equalises, open the bag and roll the top down to keep it floating. Add a small amount of tank water to the bag every 2 minutes minutes for a further 5 minutes. This slowly acclimatises the betta to your water parameters.
• After 20 to 25 minutes, use a net or cup to transfer the betta into the tank. Do not pour the bag water into the aquarium — it may carry contaminants.
• Dispose of the bag water down the sink.
• Keep the light off for the first few hours to reduce stress.
• Offer a small amount of food the next day. If the betta does not eat, remove the food and try again the following day — it may take a day or two to settle.

Feeding

Betta fish are carnivores. In the wild they eat insects and insect larvae. A good betta diet is protein-based like Pet Aqua's Betta Granulated food — not generic tropical fish flakes. Feed small amounts once or twice a day.

What to Feed

• Pet Aqua Betta-specific granulated as the staple diet. These are formulated for bettas with higher protein content. A quality betta granules is the best everyday food.
• Frozen, live or freeze-dried Daphnia as a treat, 1 to 2 times per week. Bettas love them but they should not be the only food.
• Frozen, live or freeze-dried bloodworms and brine shrimp as occasional treats. Daphnia is particularly good as it acts as a natural laxative.
• Avoid generic tropical fish flakes as a staple — they are too low in protein for bettas and can lead to malnutrition.

How Much and How Often

• Feed 3 to 5 granules once or twice a day. A betta's stomach is about the size of its eye — small portions only.
• Feed treat foods (bloodworms, brine shrimp) 1 to 2 times per week, replacing one pellet meal.
• Remove uneaten food after 2 to 3 minutes. Bettas are slow eaters but anything left will rot and spike ammonia.
• Fasting one day per week is beneficial. It lets the digestive system rest and prevents constipation and bloating.
• Overfeeding is one of the most common causes of betta illness. Less is more.

Tank Mates — One Betta, One Tank

The simplest and safest approach is to keep a single male betta alone. Bettas are territorial and aggressive toward their own species. Males will fight other males to the death. Most bettas are best kept solo.

• A single male betta in his own tank is the ideal setup. No compatibility issues, no fin-nipping, no stress.
• Never keep two male bettas together. They will fight until one or both die.
• Never keep a male and female together except briefly for breeding by an experienced keeper. The male will harass the female.
• If you want tank mates with a male betta, choose only peaceful, non-fin-nipping species in a larger tank (60 litres plus). Compatible options include snails (nerite, mystery), shrimp (if the betta does not hunt them), and small peaceful schooling fish like ember tetras or harlequin rasboras. Avoid any fish that nips fins.
• Do not keep bettas with gouramis, cichlids, barbs, or any aggressive or fin-nipping fish.
• If in doubt, keep the betta alone. They are perfectly happy as solitary fish.

Water Changes

Regular water changes are the single most important maintenance task. Betta fish produce waste that breaks down into ammonia, then nitrite, then nitrate. The filter handles ammonia and nitrite, but nitrate builds up over time and must be removed with water changes.

• Change 20 to 25% of the water weekly. This keeps nitrate low and parameters stable.
• Never change more than 50% at once unless there is an emergency. Large changes cause parameter swings that stress the fish.
• Always match the temperature of the new water to the tank. Use a thermometer — even a few degrees difference can shock a betta.
• Add Seachem Prime to the new water before it goes in the tank. This removes chlorine and chloramine instantly.
• Match the pH of the new water to the tank. Stability is more important than hitting a perfect number.
• Pour the new water in slowly. Do not pour it directly onto the betta or disturb the substrate.
• Use a gravel vacuum to remove waste from the substrate during water changes.

Filter Maintenance

The filter holds the beneficial bacteria that keep your betta alive. Clean it properly or you risk crashing the tank.

• Never clean the filter media under tap water. Chlorine kills beneficial bacteria. Always rinse the media in a bucket of old tank water removed during a water change.
• Squeeze the sponge gently in old tank water to remove debris. Do not scrub or wring it out aggressively.
• Do not replace all the filter media at once. Replace media in stages — never more than half at a time — and run old and new together for a month.
• Clean the filter every 4 to 6 weeks, or when the flow reduces.
• After cleaning, add a dose of Seachem Stability to replace any bacteria lost.
• Keep the filter intake away from the betta's swimming area, or fit a sponge pre-filter to prevent the betta's fins from being caught.

Lighting and Temperature

• Keep the aquarium light on for 8 to 10 hours maximum. Use a timer. More than 10 hours promotes algae.
• Do not place the tank near windows. Natural light is uncontrolled and causes algae and temperature swings.
• Check the temperature daily. Betta fish do best at 25 to 27 degrees C.
• Do not let the temperature drop below 24 degrees. Cold water suppresses the immune system and leads to illness.
• Do not exceed 28 degrees. Above this, the betta becomes stressed and oxygen levels drop.
• Check the heater weekly. Heaters fail. A failed heater in winter can kill a betta quickly.

Regular Water Testing

Test your water weekly. Catching problems early prevents illness.

• Bring a water sample to Pet Aqua for testing, or use a home test kit.
• Test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.
• Ammonia and nitrite should always read 0 in a healthy tank. Any reading above 0 is an emergency — do a 25% water change immediately and add Seachem Prime.
• Nitrate should stay below 20 ppm. If it rises, increase water change frequency.
• Keep a record of your parameters over time. This helps you spot trends before they become problems.

Common Betta Health Problems

Fin Rot

• Fins look ragged, torn, or are shrinking back. Often caused by poor water quality or stress.
• Fix: test the water immediately, do a 20% water change, and keep the water clean. Clean water alone often cures mild fin rot. Severe cases may need a betta-safe antibacterial treatment.

Swim Bladder Disorder

• The betta struggles to swim, floats to the top, or sinks to the bottom. Often caused by overfeeding or constipation.
• Fix: fast the betta for 2 to 3 days, then feed a cooked, peeled pea (split into tiny pieces). Reduce future portion sizes. Double-tail bettas are particularly prone to this.

Ich (White Spot Disease)

• Small white spots appear on the body and fins, like grains of salt. The fish may rub against objects.
• Fix: raise the temperature gradually to 28 to 30 degrees C and use a betta-safe ich treatment. Remove carbon from the filter during treatment.

Betta Looking Lethargic or Not Eating

• Usually caused by cold water, poor water quality, or old age. Test the water and check the temperature first.
• Fix: confirm temperature is 25 to 27 degrees C, test for ammonia and nitrite, do a water change if needed.

Dropsy

• The betta's body swells and scales stick out like a pinecone. This is usually kidney failure caused by bacterial infection and is often fatal.
• Fix: isolate the fish immediately. Treatment is rarely successful. Focus on prevention through clean, warm, stable water.

Velvet

• The fish looks like it is covered in gold or rust-coloured dust, and may scratch against objects. Caused by a parasite.
• Fix: raise temperature gradually, dim the lights, and use a betta-safe parasite treatment. Velvet thrives in low light.

Lifespan — Think Before You Buy

A betta fish lives 3 to 5 years with proper care. This is a long-term commitment, not a short-term pet. Before you buy, make sure you are ready to maintain a heated, filtered tank for the full lifespan of the fish.

• Betta fish live 3 to 5 years on average. Some live longer with excellent care.
• The tiny bowls and vases sometimes shown in shops are temporary display containers, not homes. Do not replicate them.
• Before you buy, research the care requirements and make sure you can commit to daily feeding, weekly water changes, and ongoing maintenance for the life of the fish.
• Set up the tank and cycle it before you bring the fish home. Never buy the tank and the fish on the same day.